Derek Rohlffs’ 2023 Anderson Valley bottling of chardonnay is a fine, classic example. The wine’s aromatic constellation is bright and beautifully floral in personality, hopping from the glass in a mix of apple, pear, almond, a classy base of soil tones, honeysuckle, apple blossoms, a lovely touch of Anderson Valley botanicals and a deft framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is crisp, focused and full-bodied, with a beautiful core of fruit, fine soil signature, very good acids and impeccable balance on the long, complex and zesty finish. This wine tips the scales at 13.5 percent in 2023 and is utterly classical in proportion and a delicious bottle of chardonnay.